Filippo Sorcinelli: Man behind Pope Francis’ humble papal robes

Filippo Sorcinelli has crafted Pope Francis’ sacred vestments since 2013. PIC BY Filippo Sorcinelli

For over a decade, one Italian designer quietly shaped the visual identity of Pope Francis through the simplicity and elegance of his papal robes.

Behind the understated style that marked the pontificate was Filippo Sorcinelli, a specialist in liturgical garments who used fabric and symbolism to mirror the Pope’s call for humility and spiritual focus.

Sorcinelli, the 49-year-old founder of Atelier Lavs, short for Laboratorio Arte Vesti Sacre, has worked closely with the Supreme Pontiff's Office for Liturgical Celebrations for more than twenty years.

From the beginning of Pope Francis’ tenure in 2013, Sorcinelli became responsible for the sacred garments the Pope wore, including during his inauguration Mass, which was broadcast to the world.

"A sobriety of language and presence" is how Sorcinelli describes the man he has quietly dressed throughout the papacy. He explains that Pope Francis always expressed a preference for visual restraint, favouring simple cuts, natural fabrics, and designs free from opulence.

Even in the final ceremony honouring Pope Francis' life, the garments chosen reflected this lifelong philosophy.

Sorcinelli and his team did not create anything new for the occasion.

The chasuble was selected from the existing wardrobe in the papal sacristy, and the mitre, a white silk foil headpiece edged in traditional gold, had already been in use.

These choices, Sorcinelli notes, underscored the Pope’s wish to remain humble and grounded, even in death.

"His robes had to speak the language of encounter," said Sorcinelli.

"My task was to visually recount a pontificate that has always sought to build bridges, not barriers."

Inspired by medieval art, especially the frescoes of Giotto in Assisi, Sorcinelli sought to reflect the Pope’s soul through the garments.

These works, he says, express a clear and tangible spirituality that suited the Pope’s simple and direct message.

Sorcinelli carefully avoided anything grand or showy in his designs for Pope Francis.

He focused on elements that conveyed clarity and reverence rather than authority or power.

The designer recalled considering the Pope’s Argentinian roots and his distance from the elaborate traditions of central European liturgy when developing each piece.

"For Pope Francis, the robe has never been a symbol of power, but a sign of service and humility," Sorcinelli said.

His approach reflected the Pope’s desire to place the Gospel at the centre of the Church’s mission through every gesture — even his attire.

The work of Atelier Lavs extended beyond the Vatican.

Sorcinelli’s influence in the liturgical world is the result of years of dedication and a deep-rooted passion for sacred art.

Raised in Jesi in a family of weavers and embroiderers, he developed an early love for fine yarns and traditional weaving.

He later studied sacred art and historical weaving techniques at the Museo del Tessuto in Prato.

In 2002, Sorcinelli opened his atelier with the goal of blending Italy’s rich liturgical traditions with modern expression.

His designs use high-quality natural materials and are finished with hand embroidery, preserving age-old techniques while offering a fresh aesthetic.

Over time, Atelier Lavs has become a trusted name for bishops, cardinals, and religious orders across Europe.

From the Benedictines of Subiaco to the Capuchin Friars Minor, many religious communities have turned to Sorcinelli’s atelier for custom-made vestments.

His creations have also graced major festivals in cities like Assisi, Ravenna, and Padua.

His work has gone global.

Atelier Lavs has designed garments for Vatican diplomatic visits to Latin America and Asia, providing pieces that reflect both tradition and cultural sensitivity.

Sorcinelli's contributions have not gone unnoticed. In 2018, the Diocesan Museum of Milan featured a retrospective on his designs.

Three years later, the Pontifical Liturgical Institute honoured him with the Art and Liturgy Prize, recognising his innovation in sacred vestment design.